I'm always a little surprised by the number of requests I receive for recommendations and at length have decided to share something of my 'virtual moleskine' here. I'd like to think of this brief list of some of my favourite places as highly curated rather than being a comprehensive 'guide' (more often than not the places I have eaten are left off, rather than included in the the list below). These are places I have not only enjoyed, but would visit and in many cases have visited, again and again.

Italy

Da Enzo, Trastevere, Rome

Da Enzo, Trastevere, Rome

 
Mercato di S. Cosimato, Trastevere

Mercato di S. Cosimato, Trastevere

SHOP
I mercati - Circo Massimo; Piazza San Cosimato; Campo de' Fiori; and Testaccio
Drogheria Innocenzi (Piazza di S. Cosimato, 66)
Antica Caciara (via S Francesco a Ripa, 140a/b)
Funari (via dei Pastini, 121, Pantheon)
Society Limonata
Lisa Corti (via dei Coronari, 197)
Fabindia (via del Banco di Santo Spirito, 40)
Otherway / Altroquando (via del Governo Vecchio, 80/82/83)

LEARN latteria studio
STAY 'Il Sole a Trastevere' (contact: ilsoleatrastevere@gmail.com)

 
Antica Osteria del Mirasole, San Giovanni in Persiceto

Antica Osteria del Mirasole, San Giovanni in Persiceto

BOLOGNA (& Beyond)

EAT
All'Osteria Bottega (via S. Caterina, 51, Bologna)
Il Gelatauro
Antica Osteria del Mirasole (S. Giovanni in Persiceto)
Grassilli Ristorante (via dal Luzzo, 3, Bologna)
COFFEE Caffe Terzi
VISIT
Chiesa Santo Maria della Vita
Piazza del Nettuno
Palazzo Re Enzo
Archiginnasio
WALK around 'Il Quadrilatero' neighbourhood
SHOP
La Salumeria da Bruno e Franco
Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo (via Drapperie, 12/b, Bologna)
Drogheria Gilberto

 
Siena_il mercato mercoledi-5.jpg

SIENA

EAT
Salefino (via degli Umiliati, 1)
Taverna de Capitano (via del Capitano. 6/8)
Il Biondo (via del Rustichetto, 10)
Trattoria da Dino *for fritti (Casato di Sopra, 71)
Grom (il gelato) via Banchi di Sopra, 11/13
La Vecchia Latteria (via San Pietro, 10)
Caffetteria Fiorella (via di Citta’, 13)

 
Antonio della ‘Antica Pizzicheria al Palazzo della Chigiana’

Antonio della ‘Antica Pizzicheria al Palazzo della Chigiana’


SHOP / EAT
La Bottega Senese Diamine (via di Citta’, 67)
Cantina in Piazza (via Stalloreggi, 15)
Il Magnifico (via dei Pellegrini, 27)
Al Boccon di Bocco da Alberto (via Franciosa, 42)
Antica Pizzicheria al Palazzo della Chigiana (via di Citta’, 93/95)
Pasticcerie Sinatti
SHOP
Il Casale di Cristina (via dei Pellegrini, 9)

work in progress…..

 
Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

Monterosso al Mare, Cinque Terre

'ODDS & ENDS' (FROM AROUND LIGURIA, UMBRIA AND LAZIO)

CINQUE TERRE (LIGURIA)

EAT Il Bocconcino (Monterosso al Mare) 

ORVIETO (UMBRIA) 

EAT Trattoria la Palomba (16 Via Cipriano Menente, Orvieto)
VISIT Catthedrale di S. Maria Assunta
SHOP
Michelangeli (via Gualverio Michaelangeli, 3B, Orvieto) 
L'Orvietan

LUBRIANO (LAZIO) 

STAY in a 3 bedroom old stone house overlooking Civita di Bagnoregio (contact: alicekiandra.adams@gmail.com)
EAT Il Vecchio Mulino (Via G. Marconi, 25, Lubriano)

 
The Breakfast Table, Masseria Potenti, Mandura, Puglia

The Breakfast Table, Masseria Potenti, Mandura, Puglia

PUGLIA

MANDURIA

STAY / EAT Masseria Potenti

GROTTAGLIE

SHOP
Ceramiche Nicola Fasano (via F. Crispi, 6, Grottaglie)
Bottega Vestita (via S. Sofia, 23, Grottaglie)

BARI

VISIT Bari Vecchia (for the ladies making orecchiette in the street)
EAT
PerBacco (via Abbrescia, 99, Bari)
Panificio Fiore (Strada Palazzo di Citta', 38, Bari)
Panificio el Focacciaro (via Cognetti, 43, Bari)

 
‘Masseria Potenti’, Manduria (left); ‘Trattoria Le Zie’, Lecce (right), Puglia

‘Masseria Potenti’, Manduria (left); ‘Trattoria Le Zie’, Lecce (right), Puglia

LECCE

EAT Trattoria Le Zie (Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura, 19)
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 'Walking Tour of Lecce' http://www.infolecce.it/

OTRANTO

EAT Laltro Baffo
VISIT Cattedrale di Otranto

OSTUNI

EAT Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale

ALBEROBELLO

SEE i trulli

AMALFI

EAT La Caravella

NAPLES

EAT Gino Sorbillo

 
Mercato di Ballaro’, Palermo

Mercato di Ballaro’, Palermo

SICILY  

PALERMO

STAY BB22 Palace
EAT
Osteria Mercede
Sardina Pasta Bar
PerciaSacchi (via Marqueda, 284)
Biga (via Marqueda, 284)
PASTICCERIA Costa
GELATO e GRANITA
Cappadonia + Gelateria La Kasa
SHOP
Mercati di Ballaro and del Capo
Marchese Roberto
LEARN Palermo Street Food
SEE Quattro Canti and Teatro Massimo

 
Quattro Canti, Palermo

Quattro Canti, Palermo

VALLELUNGA PRATAMENO (CALTANISETTA)

LEARN
Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School

TRAPANI / ERICE

EAT
Al Solito Posto
Maria Grammatico (pasticceria)

TAORMINA

STAY Villa Carlotta
EAT Roberto Il Mago dei Cannoli

 
Antico Mercato di Ortigia, Siracusa

Antico Mercato di Ortigia, Siracusa

ORTIGIA (SIRACUSA) 

EAT
Don Camillo
Taberna Sveva
SHOP
Antico Mercato

NOTO / RAGUSA

STAY
Notia Rooms

EAT
Café Sicilia
Ristorante Crocifisso
La Rusticana

 

FRANCE

Racines, Passage de Panoramas, 2E, Paris

Racines, Passage de Panoramas, 2E, Paris

PARIS

STAY Hotel Grand Amour www.hotelamourparis.fr/en/
EAT
Racines
Clown Bar
Le Servan
Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie
Du Pain e des Idees
10 Belles Bread
Pierre Herme
L'As du Fallafel (32-34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris)
SHOP
Maison de Vacances
Astier de Villatte
Roses Costes
Marche Raspail (biologique - les dimanches

 

GREECE

Central Market, Athens

Central Market, Athens

ATHENS

STAY Coco-Mat Hotel Athens and Coco-Mat Jumelle (Kolonaki) 
EAT
Diporto (cnr Sokratos and Theatrou, Athens)
Cafe Avissinia (Monastiraki) 
Loukoumades (Sokratous, 59, Omonia Square, Athens)
Mavro Provato (Pangrati)
Dope Roasting Co. 
Queen Bee (Kolonaki)
SHOP
Varvakios Agora (Athens Central Market) Athinas (Psyrri)
Monastiraki Flea Market
Peri Lesvou (delicatessen) 27 Athinas Str, Athens
Wooden & Traditional Items (for the kitchen) 32 Athinas Str, Athens
updated 08.2019

 
The Olive Garden, Andros, Cyclades

The Olive Garden, Andros, Cyclades

ANDROS (CYCLADES)

STAY / LEARN Melisses Andros (accommodation and retreats)
EAT Agia Marina (taverna), near Batsi
SHOP Waikiki

PAROS & ANTIPAROS (CYCLADES)

EAT
Kafeneio - Palia Agora, (Naoussa, Paros)
Levantis (Parikia, Paros)
The Beach House (Apantima, Antiparos) 
DRINK Sommaripa Consolato (bar) (Naoussa, Paros)
VISIT Agia Irini (beach) (Paros) / Soros (beach) (Antiparos)
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED guided walks / trekking tours www.paroshikes.com
SHOP The Antique Store (Naoussa, Paros)

 
Emporio, Santorini, Cyclades

Emporio, Santorini, Cyclades

SANTORINI (CYCLADES)

EAT
Taverna Roza (Vourvoulos)
to Psaraki (Vlychada)

DRINK
Gaia Wines

SHOP
Atlantis Books

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Caldera sailing tours (Barbarossa Sailing)

LEARN
Tomato Industrial Museum

 

SPAIN

Palacio del Generalife, Alhambra, Granada

Palacio del Generalife, Alhambra, Granada

MADRID

EAT
Sala de Despiece
Taberna de Carmencita
Panic (Calle del Conde Duque, 13, Madrid)
SHOP Antigua “Casa Talavera” (Isabel la Catolica, 2, Madrid)

TOLEDO

VISIT Catedral de Toledo

GRANADA

VISIT Alhambra (book in advance)
RELAX Hammam al Andalus (also, Madrid)

LAS ALPUJARRAS (CAPILEIRA)

EAT
La Taberna de Tiacheta (Plaza del Calvario)

 
Setas de Sevillas, (Metropol Parasol), Seville

Setas de Sevillas, (Metropol Parasol), Seville

SEVILLE

STAY Hotel Lobby Room
EAT (TAPAS)
Bodega dos de Mayo (Plaza de la Gavidia, 6)
Duo Tapas (Calle Calatrava, 10 / 16)
Bajo Guia
EAT
Palo Cortao
Canabota
VISIT Setas de Sevilla
SHOP Tenderete

CORDOBA

EAT Regadera
VISIT Mezquita Catedral de Cordoba

 

PORTUGAL

Capela das Almas de Sta. Catarina, Porto

Capela das Almas de Sta. Catarina, Porto

PORTO (& SURROUNDS)

EAT
Pedro Lemos
Pedro Limao
Combi Coffee
O Bairro (Aveiro)
LEARN
Ferreira (port wine tour and tasting)
SHOP
Claus Porto Flagship Store (Rua das Flores, 22)
A Vida Portuguesa (Rua de Candido dos Reis, 36, Porto - also various locations in Lisbon)
Livraria Lello

Portalegre

EAT Solar do Forcado (R. Candido dos Reis, 14)

 
Canais de Aveiro, Portugal

Canais de Aveiro, Portugal

LISBON

EAT
Prado Restaurante
Sea Me Peixaria

Manteigaria (better than Pasteis de Belem, and without the wait - also in Porto)
Taberna da Rua das Flores
SHOP
Teresa Pavao (ceramics and textiles), by appointment e: tpobjectosdearte@sapo.pt
Solar Antiques (Rua D. Pedro V, 68 - 70)
A Vida Portuguesa (various locations)
RECOMMENDED
Yellow Bus ‘Hills Tramcar Tour’ (from Praca Comercio)

 

AUSTRALIA

 
 
Milk and Honey, Mullumbimby, New South Wales

Milk and Honey, Mullumbimby, New South Wales

GREATER NEW SOUTH WALES

BYRON BAY AND BEYOND

EAT
Fleet
Milk and Honey
Woods

SHOP Mullumumbimby Market

 

Music: "Rainy Sun", The Owl (freemusicarchive.org) CC BY-NC-ND

MELBOURNE & GREATER VICTORIA

STAY
Marge's Cottage (Poowong)
The White Room
EAT / DRINK
Marion
Pellegrini's
Tipo 00
Tivoli Road Bakery

SHOP
Costante Imports

 
Image credit: FLORE VALLERY-RADOT

Image credit: FLORE VALLERY-RADOT

TASMANIA (HOBART AND BEYOND)

STAY
Ridgeline
MACq 01 Hotel
The Bae
EAT
Templo
Pigeon Whole Bakers
Ti ama
Small Fry
EAT / LEARN The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery / School  www.theagrariankitchen.com/
SHOP
The Drill Hall (antiques) 
Farm Gate Market
Bruny Island Cheese Co. 

 

SOUTH EAST ASIA

Cao lau, Central Market, Hoi An

Cao lau, Central Market, Hoi An